The firewood we can use in CARBOROBOT Farmer and CARBOROBOT Impulse boilers. This boilers have separate gasification burning chamber to burn woo, bio briquette and other solid chunky materials. The burning process in the boiler occur in impulse mode. The firewood burn with high speed and high power. This impulse mode allow burn wood wery clean. The heat will be shepherd to the buffer accumlator
The drier your wood is, the better and cleaner it will burn, and the less creosote buildup you will have. Your stove or chimney cleaning needs will not be as frequent, and above all, you will limit yourself and your family to the minimum risk of having a chimney or stove fire. Wood ash does not contain nitrogen. The largest component of wood ash (about 25 percent) is calcium carbonate, a common liming material that increases soil alkalinity. Wood ash has a very fine particle size, so it reacts rapidly and completely in the soil. Although small amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that of a liming agent. Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops, and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good. You can apply wood ash at low rates to a garden usually lower than 20 lbs per 1000 sq ft (five gallon pail) with few detrimental effects. NEVER treat firewood with any type of pesticide. When you burn the wood, toxic fumes could be produced.
You should only burn clean, uncoated, non-salt-laden, untreated wood. Don't burn painted, stained, creosote treated wood or wood that has been pressure treated with preservatives (these usually tint the wood green or brown). Most shipping wood is treated with one or more of the following: fire retardant; insecticide; fungicide. The arsenic treatments were easy to spot being green...now copper compounds are used. Insecticides are not easy to detect. Fire retardants result in a brownish or rust colored stain. We have noticed that sometimes even stickers (for under bunks of lumber) are treated. Newspaper logs, particularly using the copper sulfate and salt concoction you mention, would give off toxic emissions certainly laced with dioxin since dioxin is produced during the combustion of organic material, especially in the presence of salt. Dioxin is a persistent, bioaccumulating toxin. You don't want dioxin emissions in your neighborhood.

Don't burn plastics, PE or PVC bottles, paints, waste oil vele.

Further informations CARBOROBOT Farmer

What is a Firewood Cord?
Firewood sales terminology is explained here!
Firewood cord? If you're like me, the first time you try to buy firewood, you are confused about all the terminology. In the US most large lots of firewood are described as a cord or some part of a cord, such as a half cord or quarter cord. What are these measurements and how do we compare them to smaller amounts? For example, at my local grocery store, they have firewood sales which are small bundles of wood that are 0.9 cubic feet of almond wood each. It would be nice to be able to compare this 0.9 cubic feet to a cord to see if I am paying a fair price.
Below are some terms and conversions explained for a firewood cord and other frequently used measurements in firewood sales. Generally, firewood measurements are based on a volume of wood, as in the cord or stere:

Firewood cord: A cord is a measure of firewood which is used pretty much throughout the United States. A cord equals 128 cubic feet (ft3) which is the same as a wood pile of 4 foot-long logs stacked 8 feet wide and 4 feet high (8' x 4' x 4'). This is the most commonly used measurement for firewood sales in the US although be careful to not confuse it with a "face cord" as described below. Many firewood sales are based on smaller units than the cord. For example, it is common to sell half cords or quarter cords. A half cord is simply 1/2 the volume of a full cord while a quarter cord is 1/4 the volume of a firewood cord. Therefore 2 half cords equals one cord and 4 quarter cords equals one cord.

Face cord: In some areas you may see wood labeled as a face cord, rather than a firewood cord. This is not legally defined and varies from one area to another. The size of these "face cords" can vary tremendously! So be careful when buying wood and make sure you are getting prices for a true firewood cord and not a smaller face cord.

Firewood bundle: It is common to see smaller boxes or bundles of woods at local supermarkets or home supply warehouses. These are not regulated and you have to look at each shipper's packaging to determine the amount of wood contained within. In my area, it is most common to see 0.9 cubic foot bundles, but I've also seen up to 1.5 cubic foot bundles. To determine the price per cord, you'll need to use the conversion from cubic feet to firewood cord.

Metric system (stere): In the metric system (not often used in the US but commonly in Europe, Canada and other countries), firewood sales are not based on a firewood cord and are rather based on the stere. The stere is one cubic meter (1 m3) which is roughly ~0.276 cords.

Australia (tonne): In Australia, firewood is not sold as a firewood cord, it is sold by the tonne. A tonne is a measurement of weight, not volume as the stere and firewood cord are, so it is not exactly easy to convert. The conversion from cord to tonne will depend on the density of wood as some woods are heavier than others per unit of volume.

A Mike McClintock Special to The Plain Dealer

Burn wood occasionally and you can tolerate extravagant prices on little bundles at the supermarket. Burn wood more often and you'll need to buy larger quantities. And as fuel prices continue to escalate, many people are doing just that. A recent survey by the Emerson Electric Co. found that almost 25 percent of homeowners are supplementing their central heating with wood and other alternative energy sources.
But buying firewood can get complicated. There are full cords, face cords and fireplace cords, plus seasoned versus unseasoned and hardwood versus softwood. Here are nine ways to sort through the options.
Full cords. A true cord is a stacked, unsplit pile that measures 4 feet by 4 feet by 8 feet - a practical size that dates from Colonial times. According to the New Hampshire Agricultural Extension Service, Colonials cut firewood in 4-foot lengths because it was a size people could handle. They stacked the logs in 8-foot piles because that was about all a team of horses could haul.
Face cords. The amount varies because this term refers only to the face of a 4-by-8-foot stack. A face cord of 2-foot logs for a large fireplace is half the depth of a full cord and therefore about half a cord. A face cord of 12-inch logs for a small wood stove is one-quarter the depth and therefore about one-quarter of a cord.
Fireplace cords. This measure is based on a 4-by-8-foot stack cut to standard burning length of 16 inches. That's one-third the 4-foot depth of a full cord, so you're getting about one-third of a cord.
Split cords. Split wood nestles more closely together than full logs. Cut to 16 inches, a split pile is about 15 percent smaller than the same wood stacked unsplit. Cut to 12 inches, a split pile can be about 25 percent smaller.
Dumped wood. It's difficult to judge a jumble of logs dumped in the driveway. So on your first order from a firewood dealer, consider paying extra for stacking. If you're buying hardwood you'll be able to spot pine or other softwoods padding out the load. Once the wood is stacked, you'll also see if you got the amount you paid for.
Box stacking. Open, box-pattern stacking makes sense if you're storing unseasoned wood to air dry. But to judge cord size, logs should be nestled together. If you're buying seasoned wood for burning, don't let a supplier box stack. It can pack out the pile by 50 percent.
Wood by weight. Selling wood by weight instead of by the cord is another blind alley. Even if the supplier has a scale that can calculate tons, you sure don't so there's no way to check. Also, the weight of wood varies a lot. Dense hardwoods can weigh 4,000 pounds or more to a cord while a cord of softwood, such as white pine or aspen, often weighs half as much.
Hardwood vs. softwood. Hardwood is more dense than softwood, or taken another way, there's more wood inside - and more heat. A cord of softwood often contains 10 million to 15 million BTU's, but the same volume of hardwood often contains over 20 million BTU's. Hickory, white oak, red oak, maple and other hardwoods cost more, of course. But they also burn cleaner (producing less creosote) and burn longer so you don't have to feed the fire as often as you do with softwood.
Seasoned vs. unseasoned wood. Whatever wood you buy - hard, soft, cut, split - you'll get hassles instead of heat unless it's seasoned. That means stacked to dry, generally for at least a year and longer for some hardwoods. (After four or five years, most cut logs start to deteriorate - and sooner if they're not protected from the weather.) Seasoning has such an impact on heat that you would be better off with a cord of softwood that's dry than a cord of hardwood that's green. Recently cut wood can be more than one- third moisture by weight; and when green wood burns, a lot of its potential energy is consumed, converting that moisture to water vapor instead of heat. You could split open a log to see if the wood grain inside is wet or dry. But you can spot unseasoned wood by its tight-fitting bark and spongy end grain. Seasoned wood generally has looser, more brittle bark and a spider-web pattern of drying marks on the ends of the logs.

Firewood Seasoning (drying) - Most of us that live in the city buy our firewood from a firewood sales specialist who supplies pre-seasoned wood. Seasoned firewood is dried out (often up to a year or more) so that it lights easier and burns hotter. Wet or "green" wood is not as good for building a fire. However, if you have access to fresh wood which has just been chopped, you can use your firewood rack to season your wood yourself.
The same principles apply to other wood storage, but it is even more important to keep your wood well insulated from ground water, termites and rain. You can use your regular storage rack but make sure the wood is not touching the ground and that there is as much airflow around your wood as possible. The airflow will help to dry out the wood faster. Ideally, fresh wood should sit in this condition for a year to be fully seasoned. However, after several months, most wood is okay to burn but may be a bit harder to light and will not give off as much heat. Remember, when you burn wood, the energy of the fire goes first to burning off the water in the wood! Only the energy that is left after this is what is given off as heat.

Stack your wood off the ground in an unheated shelter to help control insects. Store little or no firewood in the house.